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 Group admin 
Hi Ape, hope you do not mind that I started a new topic. I need a little help/advice on my moc. I am prety sure its the 1966 bartoletti 2 race car transporter. I have built the chassis (24 wide) using the same wheels as your 1959. But i cant find any detailed specs on the engine. Do you know if its an inline 6?
I am so pleased I have finally started my transporter :). I cant wait to start the cars - I have so much choice with the Alan Mann Team.

Hope you are well

Joe

Permalink
| November 10, 2011, 1:52 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .
Hi Ape, hope you do not mind that I started a new topic. I need a little help/advice on my moc. I am prety sure its the 1966 bartoletti 2 race car transporter. I have built the chassis (24 wide) using the same wheels as your 1959. But i cant find any detailed specs on the engine. Do you know if its an inline 6?
I am so pleased I have finally started my transporter :). I cant wait to start the cars - I have so much choice with the Alan Mann Team.

Hope you are well

Joe



Hello! Sounds ace : ) I'm afraid I only know the engine in mine, but as they're not too far apart age-wise it could be the same engine. 175hp straight 6 diesel, with a four speed gearbox and two speed axle, giving 8 total.
Permalink
| November 10, 2011, 3:50 pm
 Group admin 
Hi Joost, Welcome to the group. As I said before please do not feel any pressure to build anything for my team but you are very welcome to. I know you like motorsport so I hope you will enjoy the group and build something that suits you in any type of Lego in any scale. In answer to your questions:

I suggest reading Apeís introduction on the homepage (scroll down below the photos). Technically you can build whatever you want from 1950s Ė 1970s and add it to the group. However if you would like to be featured on the homepage then you will need to start (or join) a team and build at L or XL scale.

I chose Alan Mann / Ford because I fell in love with the transporter Ė It looks like something from Thunderbirds ;). It is a bonus that he (and his various teams) raced in all sorts of events. I donít have many websites to reference but I used Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Mann_Racing and then Google imaged the cars and transporter. I understand the Transporter was given to him in 65/66 as team leader, but in previous years it carried Cobra Fords driven by him (hence the livery).

I have not fully decided which cars to build yet, but I want to build at least one GT40 and maybe a Ford Escort. Technically anyone can ask to join the team and build any car from Alan Mannís teams. Cars need to be a maximum of 18 studs wide to fit into my transporter.

Remember you donít have to build for a team - you could start a new team if you wish, or just build anything (at any scale) from the era. In the future I intend to build a Gold Leaf Lotus 49 (in technic). I will add it to the group but I will not start a new team just for this.

Hope this helps :)

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| November 27, 2011, 3:57 pm
 Group admin 
>
Huuuuge mistake with XL motors!

DeTomaso, Lego Builders and others have asked me about the XL motors powering my Fiat.

I thought I was on the limit of what Lego could do. I have twisted two 5 long axels and smashed 4 cogs. Surely my model is just too big to be RC and work reliably?

Nope. Not even close.

There's a video on Eurobricks of two XL motors carrying 12.5Kg of weight. Mine only have to deal with 4.5Kg, so why was I smashing so many parts?

Well, it turns out I had *vastly* underestimated the torque that XL motors produce (I'm used to the old 9V motors).

As such I had geared down my motors twice, from an 8 tooth gear to a 24 tooth, and again from and 8 tooth to 24 tooth. This multiplied the torque of my 4 XL motors by approximately 10 times (and reduced the speed by 10 too).

I thought I'd need to gear them down again if bricks were breaking, but no. I actually needed to do the opposite.

I've now removed one set of the gear reduction and not only do I have a much faster model which is ace to drive, but so far no broken parts.

In summary; XL motors are seriously awesome! Buy some for your transporter now, they'll cope just fine as long as you're not a muppet like I was!
Permalink
| December 9, 2011, 8:58 am
 Group admin 
In reply to your comment on the Fiat:

Quoting Lego Builders

Thanks for the info! So...I decided that if I build an R/C car I'd build an Aston Martin DBRS9 instead of an NSX. The problem is, I'd want to build it 16 wide (same as most of my other cars), but I might not be able to squeeze 2 motors (probably an XL and a M), a receiver, and a battery pack. But if I build at a larger scale, I might need more than 1 motor to drive the wheels and a stronger steering. So what are the dimensions for each: XL, M, and a reciever? Thank you for your help. BTW, I knew about the down gearing/up gearing, but I just didn't know that's what they're called. :)


XL:
7 studs long (including a gear)
5 studs wide
5 studs high
NB: They have no stud attachment (they're completely studless)

Medium:
7 studs long (including a gear)
3 studs wide
3 studs high (I think)
NB: These have studded and studless connections

IR Receiver:
4x4 studs base

Battery Box:
8 studs long
8 studs wide
5 studs high

Hope it helps : )


Permalink
| December 9, 2011, 9:34 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight
>
Huuuuge mistake with XL motors!

DeTomaso, Lego Builders and others have asked me about the XL motors powering my Fiat.

So do you reckon 2xls would be enough for mine? They must have some serious torque after seeing what they did to that 5L rod lol
Just received a load of dark blue Lego so I can now make a start on the Sunoco Porsche :-)

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| December 9, 2011, 10:17 am
 Group admin 
Quoting DeTomaso Pantera
Quoting Ape Fight
>
Huuuuge mistake with XL motors!

DeTomaso, Lego Builders and others have asked me about the XL motors powering my Fiat.

So do you reckon 2xls would be enough for mine? They must have some serious torque after seeing what they did to that 5L rod lol
Just received a load of dark blue Lego so I can now make a start on the Sunoco Porsche :-)


Lol, you're going to have an entire grid before long! Now there's an idea...

Anyway, yes, maybe (mine ran with two). BUT - of course the fewer motors you have the more they need to be geared down, and the more torque you end up putting through the axels and cogs.

I think I've discovered more motors is better, with less gears between them and the wheels. Basically this lets the motors themselves take more of the strain, and takes some pressure off the rest of the parts.

I'd underestimated how much strain they can take, so had given them a really easy job and put huge pressure on the cogs. Now I have a nice balance : )
Permalink
| December 9, 2011, 10:52 am
 Group admin 
The XL motors have ridiculous torque. Just look at some of these vids were people gear it down enough to pull themselves!
Permalink
| December 9, 2011, 11:50 am
 Group admin 
Hi everyone,

I'm planing on building a R/C Aston Martin DBRS9, but since it'll be R/C, I'll need steering. However, I'm pretty bad at those stuff since you need to use Technic. So do any of you have a picture of a Lego car's steering mechanism so I can somewhat copy it?

Actually, my main problem is with the wheel arches. I tried having 1/2 a stud more gap on each side of the wheel already, but the wheels couldn't turn enough. I was planning on building the car 16 wide, but after struggling with the steering for a long time, I think it'll be around 20 wide. And that means taking apart my Zonda and my McLaren. ;(

PS MortalSwordsman, I noticed that your 'Vette's wheels are the same as the ones I'm planning on using, so can you post a close up picture of the steering mechanism and the wheel arches area for me?

Thanks guys! :)
Permalink
| December 9, 2011, 3:55 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
Hi everyone,

I'm planing on building a R/C Aston Martin DBRS9...
Thanks guys! :)


Hi LBJ :). Wow this sounds like a great project. Steering is a challenge but not impossible at 16 wide. My advice is to look at the instructions for the roaring roadster 4896. I will post a link below (in another comment box). From memory this car is 16 studs wide and the wheel arches flare out by an additional stud making it 18 wide. The only problem with this set is that it is a little too thin for the wheels (imo). I suggest widening it by a further two studs - making a 20 wide car (including the flared arches) but check the dimensions of the Aston Martin first.

I used the principles and pieces from this set to build my Cobra and Vette. The trickiest bit is making the arches wide enough to steer but as small as possible so it still looks good. Ape and Tomaso have given TiPi some excellent advice on this in the gerneral thread. The roaring roadster and maybe Legoís new creator car (5767) would also be a perfect tutorial on how to build good looking cars with steering. I donít think the instructions are available for 5767 yet. It looks like an ok set but nothing special. I have lost all my Vette pictures - Noooo!! I am trying to retrive them, if I can find them I will post some additional pictures.

I have very little experience of power functions so I am unsure how to integrate them into the steering mechanism. I assume you will need a large motor to power the wheels and a small motor (with those white clutch cogs) for the steering. Ape is the man to ask about that.

I admire you for trying to improve your skills and working out side of your comfort zone. Your 16 wide cars are stunning and adding steering to your future cars (any size) would be an awesome achievement. But donít forget that your style of smooth 16 wide cars donít demand steering. In my opinion it will ruin the look. But 18 and 20 wide plus cars can cope with steering.

Good luck my friend and donít hesitate to ask questions. We all learn from each other on this site.

Ps did you get my reply to your request that I build for your team. In short Ė I would love to but not for a few months. I would like to finish my project first.


Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 5:52 am
 Group admin 
Roaring Roadster instructions: http://cache.lego.com/bigdownloads/buildinginstructions/4500416.pdf

Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 5:53 am
 Group admin 
This is a really useful thread! It's great there are so many good builders here who can help with their knowledge. Now it's my turn to steal some brains!

Suspension:

I'm building a large scale Technic car. It has all round independent suspension. At the back is double wishbone of my own design, whilst the front uses LEGO's own double wishbone bricks.

The problem is my rear suspension is nice and firm but my front suspension is way too soft.

I don't want to get more / harder shocks, so how can I stiffen it up? I don't think I can make the shocks more vertical to help. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm rubbish with Technic sometimes...



Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 7:33 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight
This is a really useful thread! It's great there are so many good builders here who can help with their knowledge. Now it's my turn to steal some brains!

Suspension:

I'm building a large scale Technic car. It has all round independent suspension. At the back is double wishbone of my own design, whilst the front uses LEGO's own double wishbone bricks.

The problem is my rear suspension is nice and firm but my front suspension is way too soft.

I don't want to get more / harder shocks, so how can I stiffen it up? I don't think I can make the shocks more vertical to help. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm rubbish with Technic sometimes...



Hi, it feels weird offering advice to such a great builder such as yourself. I offer this advice with utter respect of your skills. I suspect that Nick is best suited to this request.

Front suspension and steering in my opinion is one of the hardest things to do in lego. Especially if it is a front wheel drive car. Which springs are you using? The classic small ones or the big ones (like on the unimog)? If you do not wish to use/buy the super strong yellow springs (big or small) then your only choice is to double up the springs. The only problem is that it might reduce the steering lock. This is on the assumption that the spring is in a near vertical position. The springs on the Mog are the strongest that Lego have produced (I think). I suspect you donít want to take it apart Ė I donít

Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 7:55 am
 Group moderator 
Quoting Ape Fight
This is a really useful thread! Now it's my turn to steal some brains!

Suspension:


Hi, apprenently there were 3 hardnesses in the classic Lego-springs, (I know two : 8860 and 4404 (or Unimog...)
There exist a few other designs.

Anyway, you can stiffen the springs by turning a small rubber around the shaft. Push the spring - turn the rubber band... Then the spring itself is a bit shorter and so more stiff already...
(If I don't talk English, I will post a picture).
Another possibility is to open the spring (not easy to do so), and alter the spring, or stretch it somewhat.
If your not affraid to take a spring apart, of course you have more possibilities to do my first solution...

Good luck!
Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 9:12 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Joost Cumps

Hi, apprenently there were 3 hardnesses in the classic Lego-springs, and, there exist still a few other designs.

Anyway, you can stiffen the springs by turning a small rubber around the shaft. Push the spring - turn the rubber band... Then the spring itself is a bit shorter and so more stiff already...
very clever. Austin has joined our team :).

Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 9:17 am
 Group admin 
Thanks all : ) Hmm, 2 shocks might work,and I like that rubber band idea! Time to try some out. The shocks are at a reasonable angle, will it make a massive difference to get them vertical? They're the normal small ones, it's not a very big MOC
Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 1:17 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight
Thanks all : ) Hmm, 2 shocks might work,and I like that rubber band idea! Time to try some out. The shocks are at a reasonable angle, will it make a massive difference to get them vertical? They're the normal small ones, it's not a very big MOC

It won't make much difference being vertical. If you can get the bottom of the spring closer to the wheel, that might help. If you have a little more space than a Lego shock absorber takes, try the old sliding toggles/elastic band trick to give yourself endless adjustability of stiffness and ride height.
Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 2:32 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .
Quoting Lego Builders
Hi everyone,

I'm planing on building a R/C Aston Martin DBRS9...
Thanks guys! :)


Hi LBJ :). Wow this sounds like a great project. Steering is a challenge but not impossible at 16 wide. My advice is to look at the instructions for the roaring roadster 4896. I will post a link below (in another comment box). From memory...

Thanks! I'll take a look at the instructions soon...
Permalink
| December 10, 2011, 11:48 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Nick Barrett
It won't make much difference being vertical. If you can get the bottom of the spring closer to the wheel, that might help. If you have a little more space than a Lego shock absorber takes, try the old sliding toggles/elastic band trick to give yourself endless adjustability of stiffness and ride height.

That could be it - the rear springs are 1 stud away from the wheels, the fronts are about 3. Hmm. Time for a re-think. Thanks y'all : )
Permalink
| December 11, 2011, 8:51 am
 Group admin 
Hmmm... suspension questions eh? Seems like a good time to ask how to get a 7 lb Plymouth to bounce again. Right now I have 2 stiff, 1 medium, and 1 soft spring (at a 30* angle) on each rear wheel and it's still mushy. Am I missing something besides just putting more shocks on?
Permalink
| December 11, 2011, 6:13 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator. Chincilla .
Hmmm... suspension questions eh? Seems like a good time to ask how to get a 7 lb Plymouth to bounce again. Right now I have 2 stiff, 1 medium, and 1 soft spring (at a 30* angle) on each rear wheel and it's still mushy. Am I missing something besides just putting more shocks on?

Well changing the angle coul help a lot. But for a quick easy fix, and the suspension is swing arm, you can hook a rubber band on to the swing arm as close to the wheel as possible, then hook it to the bottom of the car. A rubber band would be neede for each arm( or more if necessary). However this may not, if there is no place to hook the bands, or you may not want exposed rubber bands. Just a suggestion!
Permalink
| December 12, 2011, 1:32 pm
Quoting Lego Builders
Hi everyone,

I'm planing on building a R/C Aston Martin DBRS9, but since it'll be R/C, I'll need steering. However, I'm pretty bad at those stuff since you need to use Technic. So do any of you have a picture of a Lego car's steering mechanism so I can somewhat copy it?

Actually, my main problem is with the wheel arches. I tried having 1/2 a stud more gap on each side of the wheel already, but the wheels couldn't turn enough. I was planning on building the car 16 wide, but after struggling with the steering for a long time, I think it'll be around 20 wide. And that means taking apart my Zonda and my McLaren. ;(

PS MortalSwordsman, I noticed that your 'Vette's wheels are the same as the ones I'm planning on using, so can you post a close up picture of the steering mechanism and the wheel arches area for me?

Thanks guys! :)


Haha! Yes!!! I figured out the steering! So, if you are using43.2 x 22 zr wheels, you can use one of the half as wide hubs inside of the tires, and allow steering elements inside of the tire. You get it? But if you aren't using those wheels, you can use what mortalswordsman said (It works on my 8682 Nitro Intimidator). Also, I'm working on a sliding mechanism that allows for the wheels to steer with no arc (like the wheels on regular cars). That whole thing might be confusing, but give it 5 (or 10) minutes to decipher it.
Permalink
| December 12, 2011, 10:10 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting TiPi .

Haha! Yes!!! I figured out the steering! So, if you are using43.2 x 22 zr wheels, you can use one of the half as wide hubs inside of the tires, and allow steering elements inside of the tire. You get it? But if you aren't using those wheels, you can use what mortalswordsman said (It works on my 8682 Nitro Intimidator). Also, I'm working on a sliding mechanism that allows for the wheels to steer with no arc (like the wheels on regular cars). That whole thing might be confusing, but give it 5 (or 10) minutes to decipher it.

No, I'm not working with 43.2 x 22 ZR tires - I'm working with the ones on the Roaring Roadsters set. I know how to make steering (I've made 'em 3 times so far. My VW Beetle and Ferrari F310B have steering), but I just can't make them turn far enough for a RC car. All my RC (not Lego) cars' steering radius is *miles*. ;( The wheel arches get in the way even if I make them 9 long instead of 8 long. Thanks for your help, though.
Permalink
| December 12, 2011, 10:44 pm
 Group admin 
As some of you know I'm building a 1960 Maserati Tipo 61 Birdcage for my transporter. However, it's only 12 studs wide - and therefore not qualified ro be listed on the group's front page.

I asked Ape Fight if he would allow and exception, but he wanted to hear what others thought.

So I'll add a link of the picture of my Birdcage (still a WIP) in this conversation soon when I het a chance to upload it.
Permalink
| December 14, 2011, 6:47 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
As some of you know I'm building a 1960 Maserati Tipo 61 Birdcage for my transporter. However, it's only 12 studs wide - and therefore not qualified ro be listed on the group's front page.

I asked Ape Fight if he would allow and exception, but he wanted to hear what others thought.

So I'll add a link of the picture of my Birdcage (still a WIP) in this conversation soon when I het a chance to upload it.


Saw the sneak peek of the transporter in your Stratos MOC - how's it going? Looks good in what I can see!

Permalink
| December 18, 2011, 10:21 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight

Saw the sneak peek of the transporter in your Stratos MOC - how's it going? Looks good in what I can see!

It's coming along alright, but I still need to finish the top deck area. I could actually finish it right now if I had the parts. Bricklink here we come! I've just ordered parts for my Birdcage yesterday, so it could be posted before Christmas! One of my biggest problems on the transporter is the weight - my axles can't handle it, so my it's supported by Duplos. Lego needs to make titanium axles!
Permalink
| December 18, 2011, 10:39 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
It's coming along alright, but I still need to finish the top deck area. I could actually finish it right now if I had the parts. Bricklink here we come! I've just ordered parts for my Birdcage yesterday, so it could be posted before Christmas! One of my biggest problems on the transporter is the weight - my axles can't handle it, so my it's supported by Duplos. Lego needs to make titanium axles!


Sounding good LB : ) Hmm, they should be able to take the weight (mine is 4.5KG and I bet Nick's and DeTomaso's are even more). Maybe the chassis picture on my 'Heavy Duty Drive Train' MOC will help - I use two beams on each side of the axel, and where the wheels are, a gap of one stud and then another beam (inside the wheel). It should be clear in the picture.

Permalink
| December 18, 2011, 11:02 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
One of my biggest problems on the transporter is the weight - my axles can't handle it, so my it's supported by Duplos. Lego needs to make titanium axles!

Lol, I know that problem all to well! You'll need to use technic liftarms, possibly in a double (or maybe single) wishbone configuration. I used double wishbones strapped to a double technic brick thick chassis for my Satelite(and the chassis STILL cracked...), you wont need anything that drastic, but it's just an example. =)
Permalink
| December 18, 2011, 11:17 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
It's coming along alright, but I still need to finish the top deck area. I could actually finish it right now if I had the parts. Bricklink here we come! I've just ordered parts for my Birdcage yesterday, so it could be posted before Christmas! One of my biggest problems on the transporter is the weight - my axles can't handle it, so my it's supported by Duplos. Lego needs to make titanium axles!


Hi LBJ. Mocs at this size and weight are extremely challenging even if you have had experience of building with Technic. The advice above is totally correct. In short you need to support the axle (with technic beams) in at least two points (for each wheel). One just behind the wheel and then again a few studs in (toward the centre of the chassis). I had to completely rebuild the steering due to a similar type of issue and beef up the second set of rear wheels. Good luck, I am sure you will get over this problem.


Permalink
| December 18, 2011, 12:29 pm
 Group admin 
Hi Ape. I canít figure out how to add/amend a photo to the homepage. Sorry to be a pain but would you mind swapping the photo of my transporter (currently on the home page) for one of my new photos (taken today). They are still not great but a lot better than the first batch. The light at the moment is terrible.
Permalink
| December 22, 2011, 6:38 am
 Group admin 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .
Hi Ape. I canít figure out how to add/amend a photo to the homepage. Sorry to be a pain but would you mind swapping the photo of my transporter (currently on the home page) for one of my new photos (taken today). They are still not great but a lot better than the first batch. The light at the moment is terrible.


Sure; but here's how to so you can have a go - but if you get stuck let me know and I'll upload it:

1. Click 'edit' on any MOC and then 'add photos'

2. Upload your chosen picture, select 'center' as the option (so the picture is a small centered thumbnail) and make sure the 'use as main image' is not selected.

3. Copy the picture's html code that has appeared at the top of your MOC's editing box, then close the page (this means your changes won't be saved and your MOC will be as it was before).

4. Click 'edit' in this group, scroll down to your section and paste the html code for the picture over the existing code.

5. That's it : ) Job done
Permalink
| December 22, 2011, 6:53 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight

5. That's it : ) Job done


Ok I have done it but have accidently deleted Senators transporter!!!!!. Have you still got his HTML code.
Doh!
Or should I ask him to upload again?

I told you I was equally bad at everything ;)
Permalink
| December 22, 2011, 7:07 am
 Group admin 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .

Ok I have done it but have accidently deleted Senators transporter!!!!!. Have you still got his HTML code.
Doh!
Or should I ask him to upload again?
>

Lol, easy fix; just save a copy of his transporter's image to your desk top and do the same as you've just done for yours (upload that image to one of your MOCs, copy, paste).

Sorry, no - but I really should save a backup of the code!!


Permalink
| December 22, 2011, 7:32 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight
Quoting MortalSwordsman .

Ok I have done it but have accidently deleted Senators transporter!!!!!. Have you still got his HTML code.
Doh!
Or should I ask him to upload again?
>

Lol, easy fix; just save a copy of his transporter's image to your desk top and do the same as you've just done for yours (upload that image to one of your MOCs, copy, paste).

Sorry, no - but I really should save a backup of the code!!


Lol... now it's all clear to me why you didn't want me to find out. =P This is why I don't even try to do much html, it's so confuzzing. At least it's all better now? I think? I can't tell? EEEEEP!!!!?
Permalink
| December 22, 2011, 9:25 am
 Group admin 
Anyone struggling with wheel sizes - look at this creation by 'Quad'

http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/305051

Very very clever...
Permalink
| January 18, 2012, 11:30 am
 Group admin 
Any suggestions for getting the lighting right when takin' teh photos? I'm sure you all know by now I'm terrible at presentation... =P
Permalink
| January 20, 2012, 10:06 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator. Chincilla .
Any suggestions for getting the lighting right when takin' teh photos? I'm sure you all know by now I'm terrible at presentation... =P

Use natural light and a plain white background, turn your camera to 'close-up' and you're good to go.
Permalink
| January 20, 2012, 10:49 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator. Chincilla .
Any suggestions for getting the lighting right when takin' teh photos? I'm sure you all know by now I'm terrible at presentation... =P
I was going to say something but I thought you were happy with dull images and wrinkled sheets lol. I have a desk set up next to my brightest window (i'm lucky it's a very big bright window). Time it so it's bright but the sun is not shining directly through the window. Do not use flash, it make the car horribly shiny. Go to your local craft shop, buy 2 A1 sheets of white card (you might need 3/4 considering the size of your Pantera). Put the card on the desk or whatever you use and curve it up the wall so the whole background is white. you'll need to weigh down or tack each corner if the model isn't heavy enough to keep it in place. I think Nick means Macro mode (the flower icon) I would suggest that mode for detail shots only. Put it in auto for the overall shots. Lastly take lots of photos and only post the ones that are good. If you follow this advice, I assure you, you will become one of the most popular car builders on this site :-)
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| January 20, 2012, 11:56 am
 Group admin 
I need some advice before I start on my 1971 Ferrari 512M. I would really want to know what you guys would think that looks better for my car: the full studded looks (just like the transporter) or a more smooth look (with smooth tiles & things).

Please help me! :-)

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| January 31, 2012, 3:05 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
I need some advice before I start on my 1971 Ferrari 512M. I would really want to know what you guys would think that looks better for my car: the full studded looks (just like the transporter) or a more smooth look (with smooth tiles & things).

Please help me! :-)

I prefer: smooth :-)
Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 3:08 pm
 Group admin 
I think it's easier to make a good smooth model than a good studded one, hence why I moved to smooth building for my truck, but I prefer studded if people can pull it off. It gets harder to do the smaller the model is though.

I'd like to see your Ferrari studded personally, as variety is good in this group and it'll match your transporter, but the internet reacts better to smooth builds.

That said, we're slowly bringing full-stud building back!
Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 3:13 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Please help me! :-)

Hi Thomas. As you know I love to leave studs showing but I think I am going to rebuild my GT40 in a smoother style. Our transporters have a similar look (studded snot) but the scale of the cars might suit a smoother finish, A few studs here and there would be nice though. Excellent build

Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 3:20 pm
 Group admin 
Hahaha - Three replies with three different choices. Good luck ;).
Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 3:24 pm
 Group moderator 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .
Hahaha - Three replies with three different choices. Good luck ;).

LOL! :-) And those advices are all good ones, also. I'm with Ape: It is very difficult to do full stud in a smaller scale, but indeed, this group helps on the revival of the stud also.
My idea : search for the perfect blend.
Good luck to Thomas .
Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 3:37 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Joost Cumps
LOL! :-) And those advices are all good ones, also. I'm with Ape: It is very difficult to do full stud in a smaller scale, but indeed, this group helps on the revival of the stud also.
My idea : search for the perfect blend.
Good luck to Thomas .


I agree stud and smooth - Stooth ;)

Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 3:41 pm
 Group moderator 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .

Stooth ;)

or? Smooth and stud = Smud....
...No, doesn't sound as good...
LOL :)
Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 3:48 pm
 Group admin 
Build it the way it shapes best and ignore the studs, then fate will decide for you! =P
Permalink
| January 31, 2012, 5:49 pm
 Group admin 
Thanks for the advice!!!

I decided that I'll try to build it with studded SNOT, because that would fit better with my transporter. But if I just can't make it looks good I'll switch to a smooth look. :-D
Permalink
| February 1, 2012, 2:01 pm
 Group admin 
Hey guys, I have recently been viewing my options on the wheels for my transporter and have come across some confusion. All of the modern technic tyres have the two numbers on them which represent their diameter in mm and their thickness in mm (for example 68.7 x 34R). However, I also looked at the old 24 x 43 wheels which most of you have used for your transporters and I can't work out what those digits represent. From the images I've seen, they're 4.3cm wide nor are 4.3 inches! If any of you can help, it would be much appreciated.
Permalink
| February 3, 2012, 2:17 am
 Group admin 
Quoting George G.
Hey guys, I have recently been viewing my options on the wheels for my transporter and have come across some confusion. All of the modern technic tyres have the two numbers on them which represent their diameter in mm and their thickness in mm (for example 68.7 x 34R). However, I also looked at the old 24 x 43 wheels which most of you have used for your transporters and I can't work out what those digits represent. From the images I've seen, they're 4.3cm wide nor are 4.3 inches! If any of you can help, it would be much appreciated.

Sorry... I can't help you, because I don't have those old tires :/
Permalink
| February 4, 2012, 9:11 am
 Group admin 
Quoting George G.
If any of you can help, it would be much appreciated.


I've just taken a wheel off my truck and the 24x43 tyres measure:

- Outside Diameter: 8.4cm / 3.3 inches
- Inside Diameter: 4.3cm / 1.2 inches
- Width: 2.4cm / 0.9 inches

It looks like the numbering is 'width' x 'inside diameter', measured metrically.
Permalink
| February 4, 2012, 9:12 am
 Group admin 
I'm working on steering for a RC 20 wide car, so what's the strongest steering system out there?

~LB Jr.
Permalink
| February 15, 2012, 6:46 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
I'm working on steering for a RC 20 wide car, so what's the strongest steering system out there?

~LB Jr.


That depends totally if you want suspension in it or not..... :-)
Permalink
| February 16, 2012, 11:54 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
I'm working on steering for a RC 20 wide car, so what's the strongest steering system out there?
~LB Jr.

Ah the question that has plagued Lego kind for centur-- err... decades. I'd go for a live axle, if you need to you can look up directions from trial trucks. Idk if you want the suspension built into the axle (double wishbone) or a drivetrain running the steered wheels. I've always used live axles for anything that's driven. Otherwise I stick to pendular or double wishbone. One other bit, make sure while your building that the forces exerted on the bricks isn't in the same direction you put them together in. (Ex: don't put gears on in a manner that they can push themselves back apart.)
Permalink
| February 16, 2012, 4:21 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
I'm working on steering for a RC 20 wide car, so what's the strongest steering system out there?
~LB Jr.

And one other (other) thing, unless you're made of U-joints, you might end up having to put the steering motor ON the axles, so make sure you've got plenty of room.
Permalink
| February 16, 2012, 4:25 pm
 Group admin 
Err...I was wondering if anyone knows a set(or something similar)that has instructions. No suspension BTW.

~LB Jr.
Permalink
| February 16, 2012, 8:53 pm
Look at Jurgen Krooshoop's small red racecar - instructions here http://www.jurgenstechniccorner.com/redracecar.html
less than 20 wide and very good return tocenter RC steering
Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 7:57 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Benny Boy

Hi benny boy. Hope you enjoy the group it's probably the best on the pages. It was me who invited you. Welcome :)
Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 8:05 am
I love it! Thanks for the invite, I don't feel I can contribute with models, but I'll try to offer advice where I can
Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 8:19 am
 Group admin 
Hey! I was looking to my homepage and I knew it had to be changed in some way.
I think the title "Cars & other stuff" is a just too simple.... So because of that I decided to change it. The only thing is, that I don't have much ideas. The only thing I could think of is something like: "Life is too short to do homework, let's Lego!" I think it could be a bit too extreme, so please let me know if you have any ideas for a good title! :-)
GRTZ,
Thomas :-)
Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 12:18 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Hey :-)
GRTZ,
Thomas :-)

Legoing Mad ;)
Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 12:25 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .
Legoing Mad ;)

Sounds good! Especially the 'going Mad' part. ;-P No, sorry just joking! It really is a good title, the only thing is that it looks a bit like DeTomaso Pantera's title: 'Gone MOC'ing Mad'.... :-)
Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 2:23 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Sounds good! Especially the 'going Mad' part. ;-P No, sorry just joking! It really is a good title, the only thing is that it looks a bit like DeTomaso Pantera's title: 'Gone MOC'ing Mad'.... :-)
hahahaha I think I suggested that to him too. :)

Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 2:24 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Sounds good! Especially the 'going Mad' part. ;-P No, sorry just joking! It really is a good title, the only thing is that it looks a bit like DeTomaso Pantera's title: 'Gone MOC'ing Mad'.... :-)
If you like it feel free to use it. I was building a load of MOCs and Joe said to me you've gone moc'ing mad. I thought that would be perfect for a title for my homepage :-) What about "Wheelie good creations"? A bit cheesy but funny lol
Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 2:48 pm
 Group moderator 
Quoting DeTomaso Pantera
Quoting Thomas Graafland
What about "Wheelie good creations"? A bit cheesy but funny lol

LOL what a funny title. Com'on guys, make me a subscript also
:-)


Permalink
| February 17, 2012, 2:53 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting DeTomaso Pantera
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Sounds good! Especially the 'going Mad' part. ;-P No, sorry just joking! It really is a good title, the only thing is that it looks a bit like DeTomaso Pantera's title: 'Gone MOC'ing Mad'.... :-)
If you like it feel free to use it. I was building a load of MOCs and Joe said to me you've gone moc'ing mad. I thought that would be perfect for a title for my homepage :-) What about "Wheelie good creations"? A bit cheesy but funny lol

Cool! I really like it. That's my new title. SOrt of, cause I'm going for "Wheelie good MOC's" @MortalSwordsman Sorry that I don't use your suggestion.... :-/
Permalink
| February 24, 2012, 12:06 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Cool! I really like it. That's my new title. SOrt of, cause I'm going for "Wheelie good MOC's" @MortalSwordsman Sorry that I don't use your suggestion.... :-/
Don't you mean you wheelie like it? ;-)

Permalink
| February 24, 2012, 12:30 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting DeTomaso Pantera
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Cool! I really like it. That's my new title. SOrt of, cause I'm going for "Wheelie good MOC's" @MortalSwordsman Sorry that I don't use your suggestion.... :-/
Don't you mean you wheelie like it? ;-)

Lol! The puns are wheelie getting out of hand. =P
Permalink
| February 24, 2012, 12:43 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Sounds good! Especially the 'going Mad' part. ;-P No, sorry just joking! It really is a good title, the only thing is that it looks a bit like DeTomaso Pantera's title: 'Gone MOC'ing Mad'.... :-)


Nice update - that sneak peak of the buggy / sports concept thing looks great
Permalink
| February 26, 2012, 2:05 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight

Nice update - that sneak peak of the buggy / sports concept thing looks great

Thanks you! I think I'll upload it somewhere in this week. :-)
Permalink
| February 27, 2012, 1:31 am
 Group admin 
Quoting MortalSwordsman .
Hi benny boy. Hope you enjoy the group it's probably the best on the pages. It was me who invited you. Welcome :)


Welcome Benny - all styles are welcome here so don't feel you're too 'Technic-y' or anything.
Permalink
| March 4, 2012, 5:01 am
 Group admin 
What are the pieces that Malte Dorowski used for his 917k's butterfly door hinge called and where can I find them on Bricklink? (link in following comment)

-LB Jr.
Permalink
| March 6, 2012, 8:25 pm
 Group admin 
Malte; I think you've provided more vehicle building ideas than anyone in MOCpages history, including Firas!
Permalink
| March 8, 2012, 2:47 pm
 Group moderator 
Hi everyone, I'm pretty new to bricklink (aka I can't find a thing), so can someone please post the link to the wheels that LBJ used for his Maserati Birdcage? The wheel's that I have are all to wide for a 12 wide Maserati. Thanks :)
Permalink
| April 7, 2012, 11:21 pm
 Group admin 
I'm planning on selling LDD instructions for a fictional 14-wide F1 car that I made (haven't been posted yet); how much would you be willing to pay for instructions?
Permalink
| May 10, 2012, 7:27 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
I'm planning on selling LDD instructions for a fictional 14-wide F1 car that I made (haven't been posted yet); how much would you be willing to pay for instructions?

It'd have to be a very special F1 car, and even then I probably wouldn't buy it. (Nothing personal, but I'd rather build my own, I find it more entertaining) And there's so many free instructions out there, too. I reckon you might get 2 or 3 bucks per unit? Maybe? Idk, I'm no marketing expert... just a humble chinchilla.
Permalink
| May 10, 2012, 7:42 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
It'd have to be a very special F1 car, and even then I probably wouldn't buy it. (Nothing personal, but I'd rather build my own, I find it more entertaining) And there's so many free instructions out there, too. I reckon you might get 2 or 3 bucks per unit? Maybe? Idk, I'm no marketing expert... just a humble chinchilla.

Yeah, I'd prefer to build my own, but someone who's not as skilled with LEGO might (that's what I'm hoping). I'm just trying to get a few extra bucks to finish my current WIPs.
Permalink
| May 10, 2012, 8:13 pm
 Group admin 
Hi everybody! Iīm in need of advice (again... :)
This time for my Alfa Romeo transporter. I was wondering if I should put a gearbox in the truck. There's more then enough space, but there's just no way that I can connect the gearbox to a gearstick in the cabin, because it already has a 6-in-line engine that is almost as long as the cabin itself and there's steering and the cabin tilts, so I really don't have a idea how to connect the stick to the gearbox....
I can still put in a gearbox, but then there'll be some sort of stick on the side of the truck to shift between gears.
Please tell me what you want me to do.
Permalink
| July 24, 2012, 9:55 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Hi everybody! Iīm in need of advice (again... :)
This time for my Alfa Romeo transporter. I was wondering if I should put a gearbox in the truck. There's more then enough space, but there's just no way that I can connect the gearbox to a gearstick in the cabin, because it already has a 6-in-line engine that is almost as long as the cabin itself and there's steering and the cabin tilts, so I really don't have a idea how to connect the stick to the gearbox....
I can still put in a gearbox, but then there'll be some sort of stick on the side of the truck to shift between gears.
Please tell me what you want me to do.

Just put the gearlever on the side or wherever else it'll fit, it'll be like an old Citroen! =P
Permalink
| July 24, 2012, 12:28 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Please tell me what you want me to do.

Hi Thomas. Senatorís comment is brilliant haha. I had the same problem with my transporter Ė loads of room for a gear box in the chassis but the 6 inline engine (under the cab) caused all sorts of problems. I managed to connect the steering wheel (and a HOG) but there was no chance of connecting an in-cab gear stick without ruining the interior. You are a technical builder and if you donít put a gearbox in now you will probably regret it (I did). Are you planning hand of god steering? If so I would try to put the gear shifter somewhere near the HOG. I wish I had done that but I am not going to rebuild it now. I try to include basic technical functions in all my car builds but as you know sometimes they effect the looks. Good luck
Permalink
| July 24, 2012, 12:45 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Thomas Graafland
Hi everybody! Iīm in need of advice (again... :)

An hour later and I actually have some decent advice for you! (Watching some hillclimb vids has been very inspiring...somehow) You could run some technic axle linkage in through the back of the cabin through some of these: http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/3700 . Then you could have that bit stay put while the rest of the cabin would still fold up. It'd look weird with the cabin up, but it'd be okay the the cab down.

Idk what transmission you're using, I assume linear? If so, my aforementioned technique would leave an unsightly gap around the shifter knob at the end of the technic axle, so maybe line the sides with some of those '1x2 tiles with the thin panel sticking up from the side' so it doesn't look so bad from the sides. Of course I'm also assuming the interior is bricks and not studless technic.
Permalink
| July 24, 2012, 1:46 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
You could run some technic axle linkage in through the back of the cabin through some of these: http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/3700 . Then you could have that bit stay put while the rest of the cabin would still fold up. It'd look weird with the cabin up, but it'd be okay the the cab down.


Seconded. P.S I think the Spyker C8 or Pagani Zonda actually used this system (only not made from Lego) as the gearbox is rear mounted

Permalink
| July 24, 2012, 3:29 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
An hour.....studless technic.

That would work! Then there will be one axle - connected to the gearbox - in the chassis, and one from the back of the cabin. Like seen at Benny Boy:
http://mocpages.com/image_zoom.php?mocid=300906&id=/user_images/67454/1324558729m
Then the axle from the cabin will have 2 liftarms and the chassis also, so they fall into eachother when the cab will be lowered.

And your right that it's a linear gearbox (3 speed) and the cabin is not technic.

I'll now modify the rear from the cab and try if it works, and if not, I can always use MortalSwordsman's idea.

Thanks for the help guys!
Permalink
| July 25, 2012, 4:48 am
 Group admin 
After some work I now have the chassis finished and the cabin only needs a roof, so things are going pretty fast. I'm very happy with your help and I've managed to make the gearbox work with the stick in the cabin AND via hand-of-god.

Unfortunately there will be some delay, because I can't build or be on MOCpages for quite a while, but I'll let it now when returning to build.
Permalink
| July 26, 2012, 10:21 am
 Group admin 
Hello Technic Builders.

I have a question that you may be able to help me with.

Firstly apologies for building nothing in a year, but hurrah, something new is on the way! Annoyingly I have a Salt Flat racing team, vig series and helicopter to go, as well as the Ferrari racer, but something bigger is to be built first.

Anyhoo... the something bigger needs a few shocks - does anyone have the soft, medium and hard small shocks, as well as the large Unimog style ones?

Basically I need to know how much force they will store / release, and I only have the soft ones to go on (unless I take the Unimog apart).

Thanks in advance!
Permalink
| August 20, 2012, 2:12 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight
Hello Technic Builders.

I have a question that you may be able to help me with.

Firstly apologies for building nothing in a year, but hurrah, something new is on the way! Annoyingly I have a Salt Flat racing team, vig series and helicopter to go, as well as the Ferrari racer, but something bigger is to be built first.

Anyhoo... the something bigger needs a few shocks - does anyone have the soft, medium and hard small shocks, as well as the large Unimog style ones?

Basically I need to know how much force they will store / release, and I only have the soft ones to go on (unless I take the Unimog apart).

Thanks in advance!

Hi Ape. 1 hard (yellow) shock = 3 soft (grey) ones. More or less... Unimog ones are a little stiffer still.
Permalink
| August 20, 2012, 3:23 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight
Hello Technic Builders.

I have a question that you may be able to help me with.

Basically I need to know how much force they will store / release, and I only have the soft ones to go on (unless I take the Unimog apart).

Thanks in advance!

My De Tomaso had 2 stiff and 2 soft springs for the front 'axle' and 4 stiffs & 4 softs for the rear axle. And that was barely enough to keep the back up, and definetly not enough for the front.

So then if stiffs are equal to 3 softs... my speedy(unchecked) maths say that one spring unit (a soft spring) should support around 3 lbs. Assuming the Pantera weighed about 8 lbs... I have no idea whether or not my logic is solid, though.
Permalink
| August 20, 2012, 7:08 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
My De Tomaso had 2 stiff and 2 soft springs for the front 'axle' and 4 stiffs & 4 softs for the rear axle. And that was barely enough to keep the back up, and definetly not enough for the front.

So then if stiffs are equal to 3 softs... my speedy(unchecked) maths say that one spring unit (a soft spring) should support around 3 lbs. Assuming the Pantera weighed about 8 lbs... I have no idea whether or not my logic is solid, though.

Haha your math isÖerÖumÖnot the best. Joking, of course. ;-)

I don't have any suspension pieces so I can't help you, Ape; I unfortunately can't prove you, SC, wrong either. Haha

-LB Jr.
Permalink
| August 20, 2012, 7:56 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Lego Builders
I don't have any suspension pieces so I can't help you, Ape; I unfortunately can't prove you, SC, wrong either. Haha

-LB Jr.

My lunacy is invincible!!! >=D
Permalink
| August 20, 2012, 8:02 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
My lunacy is invincible!!! >=D

Haha, I also don't think chinchillas have any use for math. Therefore your math must be umm...bad. Haha
Permalink
| August 20, 2012, 8:07 pm
 Group admin 
Thanks all. S.C; that's what I'm really after - the weight (or energy) required to compress each shock - and therefore how much energy they'll store when compressed. Bit of a weird question I know.
Permalink
| August 21, 2012, 1:18 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Ape Fight
Thanks all. S.C; that's what I'm really after - the weight (or energy) required to compress each shock - and therefore how much energy they'll store when compressed. Bit of a weird question I know.

I have a couple of extras lying about, I'll probably get bored and rig them so I can get an exact measurement.
Permalink
| August 21, 2012, 2:00 pm
 Group admin 
Soft Light Bley Spring- Less than 1 lb before compressing

Stiff Yellow Spring- Almost 2 lbs before compressing.

Got bored, built a rig, did the real tests, my math was horribly off, blah blah blah.... =P
Permalink
| August 21, 2012, 3:40 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
Soft Light Bley Spring- Less than 1 lb before compressing

Stiff Yellow Spring- Almost 2 lbs before compressing.

Got bored, built a rig, did the real tests, my math was horribly off, blah blah blah.... =P


You Sir, are a Giant of a Man. Big thanks!

Permalink
| August 21, 2012, 3:44 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
...Got bored, built a rig, did the real tests, my math was horribly off, blah blah blah.... =P

Just as I had guessed! :-)
Permalink
| August 21, 2012, 3:49 pm
 Group admin 
Hi does anyone happen to know what the hudson team transporter is called, or a good website to look it up in? thanks!
Permalink
| August 24, 2012, 12:03 pm
 Group admin 
Heylo all! =P

I was wondering if anyone knew of a good (cheap!) air compressor for a Lego pneumatic engine. I built one that runs, but I can't keep up with it for more than 1 revo, so it does does 1 revo at a time as of now. Most of the ones I've found either aren't enough to get up to 4 bars (58psi) or have so much power they'd make my poor motor explode. And I don't want to pump it by hand because... I'm lazy like that. =P
Permalink
| September 12, 2012, 7:32 pm
What wheels should I use for a 16 wide Ferrari 158?
Permalink
| October 19, 2012, 6:59 pm
@Halhi I really don't know, If you have seen my Dodge A100 van which is 16-wide I use 5767 tire size. http://mocpages.com/moc.php/344103.

OK I would like to know where I can look up cars from classic race teams and what not. Also What size tires should I use for a 20 transporter? and where can I look up different transporters? Thanks in Advance,
Alex
Permalink
| October 19, 2012, 7:07 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Alex B
@Halhi I really don't know, If you have seen my Dodge A100 van which is 16-wide I use 5767 tire size. http://mocpages.com/moc.php/344103.

OK I would like to know where I can look up cars from classic race teams and what not. Also What size tires should I use for a 20 transporter? and where can I look up different transporters? Thanks in Advance,
Alex


Hi Alex. Transporters pretty much only have two tyre choices due to their size, DeTomaso's use one type, MortalSwordsman's, Nick B's and mine use the other.

As for transporter pictures; try the link in the next comment.

Permalink
| October 20, 2012, 1:12 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Halhi 141
What wheels should I use for a 16 wide Ferrari 158?

Here's a big list full of all sorts of tires and their ID numbers, I find it immensely helpful. http://isodomos.com/VPH/Wheel . Ideally I'd go with 2695 and 2696 (like on my BMW E21). They're narrow enough for decent steering and the 6 hole pattern has somewhat of a classic-y look. They're some of my favorites. =)
Permalink
| October 20, 2012, 8:49 pm
Quoting Senator Chinchilla .
Here's a big list full of all sorts of tires and their ID numbers, I find it immensely helpful. http://isodomos.com/VPH/Wheel . Ideally I'd go with 2695 and 2696 (like on my BMW E21). They're narrow enough for decent steering and the 6 hole pattern has somewhat of a classic-y look. They're some of my favorites. =)

Thanks!
I have 2695, but I lack 2695. I realized that the tires I was previously considering were too wide, so maybe I'll go with brick-built tires...
Permalink
| October 20, 2012, 10:21 pm
I joined Hudson Motor Car Company but I can't find out how the transporter looks like.
Permalink
| October 23, 2012, 11:26 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Joonmin Kweon
I joined Hudson Motor Car Company but I can't find out how the transporter looks like.


Hi Joonmin. It might be that they didn't have one officially, which makes it difficult to build. In order to build one you must find the original truck. If you'd like to build a transporter I'd suggest finding a few real ones first, which have lots of pictures, then picking one to build.
Permalink
| October 24, 2012, 2:27 am
Quoting Ape Fight

Hi Joonmin. It might be that they didn't have one officially, which makes it difficult to build. In order to build one you must find the original truck. If you'd like to build a transporter I'd suggest finding a few real ones first, which have lots of pictures, then picking one to build.


Hello Ape Fight, Does this count as the transporter for Picko Troberg?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brimen/3013268198/
Permalink
| October 25, 2012, 11:14 am
 Group admin 
Quoting Alex B

Hello Ape Fight, Does this count as the transporter for Picko Troberg?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brimen/3013268198/


Sure does, I don't think there's better evidence around than that! : )
Permalink
| October 25, 2012, 1:07 pm
Quoting Ape Fight

Sure does, I don't think there's better evidence around than that! : )

Can it be white? I don't have nearly enough gray pieces. :-(
Permalink
| October 25, 2012, 1:09 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Alex B
Can it be white? I don't have nearly enough gray pieces. :-(


Once you've picked it it's all up to you (as long is you make it the right size). We like them to be as close the real thing as possible so white seems like a good compromise, but it's totally up to you : )
Permalink
| October 25, 2012, 1:19 pm
Quoting Ape Fight

Once you've picked it it's all up to you (as long is you make it the right size). We like them to be as close the real thing as possible so white seems like a good compromise, but it's totally up to you : )

Another question, I know it says transporters must be 18 wide, but this one wasn't a full fledged transporter (If you know what I mean) so can it be 16 wide?

Permalink
| October 25, 2012, 1:23 pm
 Group admin 
Quoting Alex B
Another question, I know it says transporters must be 18 wide, but this one wasn't a full fledged transporter (If you know what I mean) so can it be 16 wide?


I think 18 is about right compared to the big trucks, as the racing car will have to be about 14, but you might be able to do 16 - as long as it's about the right scale. The dimensions of that Dodge are probably online somewhere so you should be able to compare it to one of the trucks. Don't worry so much - as long as it's about right we're OK with it! Good luck : )
Permalink
| October 25, 2012, 1:36 pm
Quoting Ape Fight

I think 18 is about right compared to the big trucks, as the racing car will have to be about 14, but you might be able to do 16 - as long as it's about the right scale. The dimensions of that Dodge are probably online somewhere so you should be able to compare it to one of the trucks. Don't worry so much - as long as it's about right we're OK with it! Good luck : )
Thanks! :-) I am currently working on a Volkswagen Golf so It won't be done right away ;-)

Permalink
| October 25, 2012, 1:40 pm
Quoting Alex B
Quoting Ape Fight

I think 18 is about right compared to the big trucks, as the racing car will have to be about 14, but you might be able to do 16 - as long as it's about the right scale. The dimensions of that Dodge are probably online somewhere so you should be able to compare it to one of the trucks. Don't worry so much - as long as it's about right we're OK with it! Good luck : )
Thanks! :-) I am currently working on a Volkswagen Golf so It won't be done right away ;-)


Can I join Picko Troberg Racing? Transporter.
Oh wait, you are building the transporter?
Permalink
| October 27, 2012, 1:58 am
Quoting Joonmin Kweon

Can I join Picko Troberg Racing? Transporter.
Oh wait, you are building the transporter?

You can build the transporter! I'll take a race car ;-) Can't wait to see what you come up with! :-)
Permalink
| October 27, 2012, 10:42 am
Quoting Alex B
You can build the transporter! I'll take a race car ;-) Can't wait to see what you come up with! :-)



Thanks! But it will take a while because I am building one of the American trucks so I got to finish that first
Permalink
| October 28, 2012, 11:53 pm
 Group moderator 
Hey everyone, I was just wondering, how does mr. Dorowski make his car roofs curved? he has multiple tiles stuck down somehow, so that they are arranged to make a curved shape... And he somehow does the same technique for the lower curves on some of his cars... I was just wondering, and if anyone knows, please let me know :) Thanks
Permalink
| October 29, 2012, 9:24 am
Quoting Harry Gravett
Hey everyone, I was just wondering, how does mr. Dorowski make his car roofs curved? he has multiple tiles stuck down somehow, so that they are arranged to make a curved shape... And he somehow does the same technique for the lower curves on some of his cars... I was just wondering, and if anyone knows, please let me know :) Thanks

Flex tubes and clips, I think, but I may be wrong...I think he showed a picture of the mechanism in a comment on one of his cars.
Permalink
| October 29, 2012, 9:39 am
 Group moderator 
Quoting Halhi 141
Flex tubes and clips, I think, but I may be wrong...I think he showed a picture of the mechanism in a comment on one of his cars.


Thanks :) I'll have a look, and what are flex tubes?
Permalink
| October 29, 2012, 9:46 am
Quoting Harry Gravett

http://images.mocpages.com/user_images/36105/1324126133m_DISPLAY.jpg
It's a bit parts-intensive, and I don't know where those short tubes are from, so I'd recommend perhaps using http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/2555 and a technic pin instead of the minifigure hands and short tubes.

Permalink
| October 29, 2012, 10:15 am
 Group moderator 
Quoting Halhi 141
Quoting Harry Gravett

http://images.mocpages.com/user_images/36105/1324126133m_DISPLAY.jpg
It's a bit parts-intensive, and I don't know where those short tubes are from, so I'd recommend perhaps using http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/2555 and a technic pin instead of the minifigure hands and short tubes.


Thanks :) I have found this:http://www.mocpages.com/image_zoom.php?mocid=268932&id=/user_images/36105/1305449247m
So I am going to find what I can, an order some new pieces :) Thanks for your help
Permalink
| October 29, 2012, 10:30 am
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