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Well if you use LDD (lego digital designer) Ctrl K will take a picture of your creation with a white backround just look here if you want to see the way it turns out. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/281206
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| September 17, 2011, 3:20 pm
For those of you who are bionicle builders, three-pronged meteor blasters are ten times more awesome than the conventional ones. Granted, the don't actually fire, but who really cares!

Here's how to do it.
You need:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=57585
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=64275 x3
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4265c x3

(I'll use bricklink's names for the pieces)

Slide the 3 Technic Bushes onto the connectors of the Axle Connector Hub (one on each axel).
Next put the three Thornax Launcher Halves on each of the axles of the Axle Hub(Its more stable than you might think). Now the opening between the three Thornax launcher halves is exactly right to for a Zamor Sphere.
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| October 22, 2011, 11:00 am
For those who are mainly LDD Mecha builders, I'll give a little advice on how to pose a mecha in LDD. It's pretty hard to pose in LDD so here's how I do it: First, when I start building the specific parts of the mecha I divide it into groups and sub-groups, like a leg makes 1 group and 3 sub groups (thigh,ankle,feet) When you have these sub-groups It'll make it a lot easier to position them seperately.

To move the leg you just have to remove the completed leg from the main joints (I use ball joints most of the time) but leave the tigh joint on (part that I use http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32174).

After this I position the socket part in the desired angle and re-connect the leg with the joint. This method is good because LDD has some issues of moving complex parts such as legs or arms.

You can also use hinges to further position the already posed MOC, like you want it to bend forward or sideways with a few degrees. Just use a hinge, place it somewhere, select the whole mecha, and try to connect it with the hinge.

These are simple tricks for posing complex builds, so I hope it was somewhat helpful. If you have any other questions about, posing, building techniques, feel free to ask!

EDIT!: The above tricks are useful only in the unpatched LDD4 or LDD3 versions. In the patched version you can simply move the whole complex part freely with the hinge tool!
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| October 30, 2011, 10:30 am
Hi everyone. Andrew has asked me to write some advice on building cars (sorry for the delay Andrew). There are lots of much better car builders on the Pages than me, but I would be honoured to help anyone who is attempting to build a car. My first piece of advice:


The first thing I do, after deciding which car to build, is to choose the correct wheels and tyres. For me this is the most important stage of the build. I use the wheels to scale the whole moc. Most cars have four wheels ;) but sporty cars often have larger wheels than road cars. Once you have chosen your wheels then start to build the chassis based on the size of the wheels. So, the total length of the chassis is based on how many wheels long the actual car is (hope that makes sense). Most cars are 6 or 7 wheels long. If you follow this simple rule (based on your chosen car and wheel) you should get the length (and height) of the car right.


If anyone has any questions on the above (or anything else Lego related) please do not hesitate to contact me. I will post more advice in the coming weeks and months (opening doors, body shaping, interiors etc) if you find this useful.


Good luck

Regards
Joe (MortalSwordsman)

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| November 17, 2011, 11:05 am
If u build microscale warships just put a minifig's head and body 3 blocks below the deck and make an opening where the minifigs head comes up and put your gun on top of his head To make it rotate, and also if u have hinge blocks you can put it on top of your gun, tilt it down 90' and put your barrels on the front yo make the elvate
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| November 20, 2011, 3:26 am
Well if anyone needs help with all things non-Universe LDD (I prefer to always have the option of buying it if I want) I'm the one to ask! By the way, what do you guys think of some of the newer patches? Every patch seems like less and less buy able bricks :/
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| December 3, 2011, 1:18 am
Hello all :-) I need some advice on how to build a dome with an outside diameter of 7 or 8 studs.. It needs to be as round as possible, made from reasonably available bricks or plates (mine HAS to be green) and strong enough to be mounted vertically. Ideas anyone?
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| December 22, 2011, 2:57 am
Credit: BiO

Coming up with paintschemes in LDD used to be really difficult for me. I'd choose a color, paint all of the important pieces that one color, then call it completed. This lead to a lot of basic-looking, primary-colored monstrosities that I'm rather ashamed of today. Somewhere along the line, I realized that there can be primary/secondary colorschemes, and even a tertiary layer could be added. This is my system for making paintschemes in LDD.

1. Since I mainly make mechs, my models can be broken down into frame and armoring. What I generally do is color all of the section designated as armor in medium gray. I'll then take the paint tool and paint highlights in light gray. Finally, since I usually have greebles such as thrusters and whatnot on the back of my mech, I'll paint those in dark gray.

2. Next, I'll go to the Selection tool and modify it so it will select pieces of the same color. I'll go to the paint tool and select the color I think will work for the main armoring section. Then I switch back to the selection tool and select a piece that is colored medium gray. Finally, I'll click on the paint tool again to paint the entire selection with my desired color. I'll repeat for each section in a different color. Now it is easy to switch between colors in certain areas.

3. Occasionally I'll feel the need to add an extra layer of color to the model. To do this, I will either; A. Paint the frame a different color other than black, or B. Add some extra highlights, generally assymetrical. Both of these are easyto do using the system I've explained above.

4. As far as particular colors go, I am very fond of Dark Stone Gray or Old Dark Gray as a primary, and a darker color as the secondary, such as Dark Red/Blue/Green. I also really like mixing in transparent colors, usually for greebles or extra highlights, as it can get intense if you use it for primary or secondary.

5. Try not to go over the limiit of colors I've described. By the time you surpass five layers (frame/primary/secondary/greebles/extra highlights), the paintscheme can get a bit noisy. Also, if you use transparent colors, that can act as two layers in itself, just because of how intense it can get.

Well, that's about it! Hopefully[,] you have found this information helpful. I wish you luck in your paintscheming adventures to come!
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| February 4, 2012, 2:03 pm
It would appear that I have failed to recall that when an Account is deleted, much unlike Comments on a MOC, comments in a Group no longer appear.

So, here's the Link to the Additional LDD Colors File I made back in November for the LDD Builders.

The File Contains the colour Palette from Version 4.0.2, keep in mind the colours are still in the Code and are displayed in the newer Versions of LDD.

All the colours are in 1x1 Brick Form, so you will need to use the Dropper Tool to select Colours, there is no other way to select the colours.

https://rapidshare.com/files/3358303443/Colors.lxf
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| February 4, 2012, 11:21 pm
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